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According to Greek mythology, in the hills of Attica, lived an innkeeper named Procrustes, son of Poseidon. In his inn he offered lodging to solitary travelers. Once fed, he invited them to sleep in an iron bed and while they… Continue Reading →

Siempre que se habla de las posiciones con las que agarramos las presas se dice que el arqueo (crimp) es la posición mas lesiva de todas, pero ya todos sabemos que para las regletas muy pequeñas no hay otra solución…. Continue Reading →

  Taking into account the adaptation of the climber to the route, as I mentioned in previous article, I would like to add some interesting facts to consider.   First let me cite the study by De Geus (2006) whose aim was to determine whether climbing routes with different inclination and / or displacement, but with equal difficulty affect physiological responses. The authors’ hipótesis was… Continue Reading →

When we try to work endurance, what is usually done is sets and reps on one or more pre-designed routes. Regardless if it is short or long endurance, as coaches we propose one or more routes for our athletes and they… Continue Reading →

How many times we hear in a crag or in a comp, that wall conditions do not help, that previous night we didn´t sleep well, that the holds are humid, that I do not have enough strength, etc., especially when… Continue Reading →

To write this post I had to dig into some old training books of my student time, specially Prof. Jorge de Hegedus book: ” The science of sports training ” in which I would find the historical bases of what… Continue Reading →

There are several scientific studies concerning physiologic characteristics of sport climbing, but almost exclusively on sport climbing routes. Recently there were published some articles that describe and analyze bouldering competition demands. A bouldering competition consist on a series of problems… Continue Reading →